For all Liteblades:
Attach the long nose bezel on the base of the Liteblade but, be careful to not use the strong side of the hex key (Allen key).
*If you apply to much force it could crack the black ring.
Once attached, you can easily screw the Liteblade on the Klarus light.
*The Klarus RS11 and Xt12 have different button interfaces, please read the instructions carefully included with the light or here below.
*When your light is flickering abnormally, it usually means the battery is low.
*Remove the clear plastic protector around the battery before using.
-Charging Operation: Uses special USB charging cable (K1-D5). The USB interface can be used with any USB power supply (including PC USB, vehicle USB, cell phone USB, etc.). The charging cable is connected to the flashlight with a magnetic connector, which self-locates when the connections are within 1cm of each other. When charging is complete, disconnection can be achieved quickly without damaging the flashlight or cable.
- Charging Indicator: When being charged, the light turns red. When charging is complete the light turns green. No light indicates that there is no load.
-Because of the strong magnetic pull (i.e., the charger head will attach itself to anything made of metal), it is important that you connect the magnetic head to the flashlight BEFORE you connect the USB end to your computer or an AC power adapter.
It would certainly cause a nasty incident to your USB/AC port if the contacts were momentary closed by a stray piece of attracted metal.
-Caution: Charging time should not be more than 24 hours. It is suggested that after the indicator turns green, the charging port should be disconnected within 1 hour.
-Fully charged a 2200mAh AW protected 18650 in a just over five and half hours.
-Memory function: When the light is on for more than 3 seconds, the mode will be memorized. Turn the light off, then the next time you switch the light on it will activate with the memorized mode.
As you would expect, press the upper raised switch (with the power logo) for on-off. You can temporarily press for momentary, press longer for locked-on. The timing here takes some getting used to – despite what the specs say, on my sample you need to hold it for a good 2 secs for it to stay locked-on. That means you could easily signal in Morse code with the momentary feature, but may be a bit frustrating initially for constant-on.
You turn the light off by a quick press-release of the on/off switch. You change modes by pressing and holding the on/off switch for >0.6 secs, which will cause the light to jump to the next output mode (and hold at that level). To change output mode again, you have to release the switch and sustain-press once more (i.e., simply holding the switch down will not advance you more than one mode). Mode sequence is Hi > Med > Lo, in a repeating loop on successive presses.
To activate strobe, press and hold the lower switch (with the caution logo). As before, a temporary press will give you momentary mode, a 2+ sec press is required for constant-on strobe.
Press the large forward clicky switch for on-off (press for momentary, click for locked-on).
Change modes by pressing the smaller electronic switch. Mode sequence is Hi – Med – Lo, in a repeating loop. Press and hold the mode-changing switch to activate Strobe.
Note that Strobe can be activated directly from Off by pressing the secondary switch. I haven't measured it, but this suggests that a standby current must be present when the tailcap is fully tightened.
There is no memory mode – the light always comes on in Hi mode.
TIPS & TRICKS: A few things to know about the Liteblades.
1- The end of the Klarus light and the base of the Liteblade, is left open on purpose. It creates hi-lights splashes when you move it towards the lens to make beautiful effects.
You can close it partially of fully with black tape depending on the result you want.
2- Mixing different colour gels works great with the blades. I sometimes mix three to twelve different colours.
Pre cut some round shape colour gels filters to put under the silver bezel, it makes changing colours quick and easy.
3- Sometimes I use white vinyl transfer tape on the blade to get a milky trail effect. (The same type of sticky paper that protects the blades when you first receive them.)
4- Dust and scratches on the Liteblades makes great effects, it creates textures. They only get better with time and usage as they are getting more and more used.
If ever your blade is to scratched and you want to change the effect, you can sand it with a fine sanding paper and get a permanent milky trail effect.
The Liteblades are made to be modified, transforment, explored in many ways. Feel free to post your ideas and results on the Facebook Light Painting Shop page and have fun with light painting.